Q: How do I know if stained concrete is right for me?
A: If you love their look, stained concrete floors are the perfect choice. However, if you object to "imperfections" such as hairline cracks, uneven tones and "blemishes" (also found in many natural materials), then you may prefer a more traditional floor covering. Our clients believe these "flaws" add "character." Some designers deliberately chip, hammer, pour rock salt or press leaves on newly poured concrete to add interest or to achieve a "distressed" Old World look. (Yes, we want your floors to look 100 years old.) For more on what to expect, click here.
Letting nature do its thing at the time of the pour often results in highly desirable "fossils" such as these leaf impressions.
Q: What services do you provide? A:Stained Concrete by Peyton & Associates travels throughout the Greater Houston area (within a 2 hour radius of Conroe, Texas) providing the materials and labor to prepare, score, acid stain, seal and wax the floors.
Q: When do we let our builder know that we are going to use stained concrete as our flooring choice? A: Preferably before the foundation is poured. Our "builders' instructions"can help you, your builder and subcontractors avoid common mistakes.
Q: When does Peyton & Associates arrive? A:If you are "scoring your entire slab" (saw cutting a pattern in them), we arrive a few days after the foundation is poured and before framing begins. That way the scoring pattern can go "under" the walls. (However, if you are scoring only a few rooms, it makes sense to wait to score the slab just before staining it.)
We STAIN AND SEAL the floors as soon as the structure is "dried-in" and before the dry wall is hung. ("Dried in" for us means the roof is on and doesn't leak; the windows are in.) We return again right before move-in -- after your building project has been professionally cleaned -- for a final wax.
Q: How do you "score" the floors. A: Floors are saw cut with a diamond blade 1/8"wide and deep. We typically recommend a 30"x30", 36"x36" or 48"x 48" square grid on a diagonal. We are happy to suggest other designs or to follow your architect's drawings.
Q: What about borders? A: Borders are optional (if we score before framing) and required if scoring begins after the framing is completed or on patios. (Unless, of course, no scoring is desired.) Borders be stained a second color, if desired. (Adding a second-color border to a dining room or entry can add drama and definition.)
Q: How do we protect the floors during construction?
A: Our instruction sheets provide details on how to protect the floors. We stain floors before the sheetrock is hung and after the building is dried in. After the floors are stained, they should be covered for the remainder of construction to protect them from spills, glue, marks, paint, etc. We can cover the floors for an additional fee or you or your builder can do this as well. (We use 4x8 sheets of cardboard which are taped to a strip of plastic staped to wall studs. Thermoply is also a good covering.)
Q: What are some of the most commonly made mistakes?
A: These vary from nailing support walls into the concrete to taping directly to the concrete. We provide builders and framers with detailed instructions to prevent most common mistakes.
Q: What do you charge for your services? A: Cost per square foot depends on total square footage, scoring pattern, and how far we must travel to the job site. Our fees decrease as the square footage increases.(ie, price breaks at 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000 sf). We provide a written proposal, based on your specifications, within a day or two of your call. OR COMPLETE THE SPECIFICATIONS form at this link for a bid.
Q: Which rooms should I stain?
A: More and more residential clients are staining the ENTIRE FIRST FLOOR! In addition to price savings and greater energy efficiency, you will add to the flow of the house. When porches are included, staining extends the indoors out ... giving the perception of a much larger house.
Q: What do you need to know in order to give us a quote on our job?
A: Please call us BEFORE the slab is poured. Complete our SPEC FORM and send it to us for a ballpark quote on your job. We are also happy to review your plans and make suggestions before you complete this form.
Q: Do you work on older floors or floors that were not protected during construction? A: Depending on the size of your job and your location as well as our new construction schedule, we may be able to prepare the concrete for staining by capping it with an overlay. Capping the floors pretty much doubles the costs and time involved. See our remodel pages on this web site.
Q: What are the color choices?
A. Even with our color chart (found on this site), tones will vary according to concrete composition, finish and conditions during which the concrete was poured. The sheen also varies depending on the concrete's porosity, the trowel finish, and the sealer/wax finish.
Q: How do I care for my floors after I move in? Can I remove scratches? A. Visit our Care Sheet page for tips.
Q: Do you have a showroom? A. We have a driving tour to commerical locations we have stained. In addition, if you contact us to let us know where you are building, we may be able to arrange appointments to see homes we have stained nearby. But, the best way to determine what the stain will look like on YOUR concrete is to do test samples before staining.
Q: How do I know what the stains will look like on my floor?
A: We typically provide approval samples (as shown at right) in an area that will be concealed later by cabinets, a tub or a fireplace. Since we do not use paints or pigments, samples are the best way to determine what the stains will look like on yourconcrete. Because the stain adapts to the unique composition of your concrete, no two floors are identical.
Q:Where can I learn how to do this myself?
A: We recommend that you always use a pro. Afterall, your home is one of your most important investments and staining and sealing a floor requires a lot of know how. (We've been doing this since 1999 and have stained hundreds of homes and businesses.) However, if you are an experienced do-it-yourselfer and up for a challenge, we recommend taking a course or at least purchasing workbooks and videos. We recommend http://www.acidstainconcrete.com/files/master.html
